Monday, December 16, 2013

Lucky in Love...er Guanajuato

They say if we are lucky, we only get one great love in our lifetime, so if this is true, then I think Guanajuato just may be mine...





Guanajuato has a beautiful energy, the city fascinates me and I always feel alive and want to sing when I walk the cobblestone streets downtown to the Jardin del Union, or sit outside the Teatro de Juarez, kiss at the Callejon del Beso, or meditate in all the beautiful churches. I like to take a bus through the underground tunnels or enjoy a coffee at the Zopilote Mojado Cafe.  


I like to stroll the streets and fantasize about living in those little apartments overlooking the streets with little plants and bougainvilleas hanging over wrought-iron terraces.  I always wanted to rent one of those little apartments just to feel what it would be like to wake up in the morning and open up the shutters to the veranda, sun on your face, and say "Good morning, Guanajuato!"



When I used to tell people in Canada that I lived near Guanajuato, the first thing they were curious about was the Museum of the Mummies, and I always got dragged to it when friends came to visit.  Myself, I find it a bit disturbing just how preserved they are - even their hair is still in tact, and you can see some mothers with a pregnant belly still. 





Guanajuato is also home to the famous International Cervantino Festival held every year in October, where you can enjoy music, art and theatre productions for three weeks long.




"La Callejoneada" is a night tour of all the streets in Gto. with a group of men from the Folkloric Ballet at the University who get dressed up in velvet outfits and lead you around playing guitar, singing Mexican folk songs, telling you legends about each street and drinking tequila disguised as Kool-Aid.

I was fortunate to attend the University of Gto's intensive Spanish program for 6 months.  Tuition here was extremely cheap - in those days it was 2003, I only paid 1200 pesos for the whole semester!  Here they don't charge you more because you are a foreigner.  If you want to learn Spanish, go here, it's the most bang for your buck and the teachers are fabulous.

Some of my favorite cafes/restaurants:

El Zopilote Mojado, Plaza Mexiamora #51 - cafe and hotelito

Cafe Carcamanes, Plazuela Carcamanes #10 - cafe and hotelito




El Gallo Pitagorico
Callejon de la Constancia No. 10
(behind Teatro Juarez near entrance to Alonso parking lot) - you have to hike up quite a few steps but the view of the city is worth it, they have little tables near verandas overlooking the city - must try Portabello Mushrooms with basil and tomato sauce.


Breathtaking view from El Gallo Pitagorico

Ciao Bella, Avenida Juarez 22 - this is a cute little Italian restaurant with bright tables and chairs in the verandas overlooking the street, reasonably priced. Must try:  Veggie lasagna, Viking Pasta (salmon in rosé sauce), excellent pizzas.

Unicornio Azul
Plaza del Baratillo No. 2
This is the best health food store in Gto. - you can find really great homemade peanut butter here, coconut milk, soy milk, tofu, all kinds of nuts, dried fruit, yogurt, vitamins, beauty products, fresh juices and the best homemade veggie burgers in town.

Sabor y ArteMarfil - a great place to have a coffee, pizza or pasta out of town in the residential neighbourhood of Marfil.

Mexico Lindo & Sabroso, Paseo de la Presa 154 - the best place to go if you want cheap, authentic Mexican cuisine located out of the downtown area, situated close to the government buildings.  Must try: Enchiladas Mineras (very traditional Gto. dish with potato and carrot), Enchiladas Suizas, consome de pollo.

With the exception of Bar Luna for nighttime drinks and appetizers, I would avoid the restaurants around Teatro Juarez and Jardin del Union, they are pricey and not very authentic.

La Sierra Restaurant, Santa Rosa 
Very traditional and authentic Mexican cuisine located on the highway to Dolores Hidalgo in a little town called "Santa Rosa", about 20 min. from Gto.  Must try:  pollo con mole (chicken with spicy chocolate sauce), queso fundido (melted cheese with chorizo sausage), tequila drink called "Bandera" and their homemade flan.  Up the street from the restaurant you will find a beautiful little artesanal store that sells pottery, homemade jams and liquors made by disadvantaged women of Guanajuato.  If you like walking in nature, you will also find access to a dam called "la presa" up the hill from the restaurant, it is not advertised or well known, but you can park your car there and walk down through the fields and overlook a beautiful water reservoir where people go camping and have picnics.




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